Laugavegur: Iceland's trek across colourful mountains, lava deserts and glaciers

Some routes are long in kilometres and some are long in scenery. The Laugavegur, in southern Iceland, belongs to the second kind. In about 55 kilometres it crosses mountains of impossible colours, fumaroles, fields of black obsidian, ash deserts and green valleys dotted with birches. It is short, yes, but the Icelandic weather and the glacial rivers make it a trek you need to prepare seriously.

The essentials

• Start: Landmannalaugar, in the highlands.
• Finish: Þórsmörk, a valley between glaciers.
• Distance: about 55 km.
• Duration: 3–4 days, with nights in huts or authorised campsites.
• Common extension: many continue to Skógar over the Fimmvörðuháls pass, about 25 km more, next to the site of the 2010 eruption.

Suggested stages

1. Landmannalaugar → Hrafntinnusker. A climb among rhyolites and geothermal areas; the highest stage, often with fog and snowfields.
2. Hrafntinnusker → Álftavatn. Descent to the lake, with views of glaciers.
3. Álftavatn → Emstrur (Botnar). Black sand deserts and the first major river crossings.
4. Emstrur → Þórsmörk. Canyons, the Markarfljót river and arrival in the wooded valley.

The huts are mainly run by the Iceland Touring Association (Ferðafélag Íslands) and require booking, with high demand in July and August.

River crossings

Several glacier-fed rivers are crossed without bridges. Their flow varies with the weather, temperature and time of day: they are usually lower in the morning and rise in the afternoon with the melt.

• Cross at the marked points, unbuckling your pack’s hip belt.
• Wear sandals or water shoes, never go barefoot.
• Use poles and move facing upstream.
• Do not cross alone if the water is high: wait or get help.

In Iceland, the river you crossed easily at nine in the morning can be dangerous at five in the afternoon.

The weather

The season is short: access via mountain roads and the huts usually open from late June to early September. Even in midsummer you can meet wind storms, horizontal rain, fog and snow in the high section. Check the forecast and Safetravel alerts every day, and register your route on their platform.

In fog it is easy to get lost around Hrafntinnusker: carry a downloaded track and some knowledge of navigating without GPS.

Gear

Prioritise protection from water and wind, warm layers, sandals for the crossings and a suitable sleeping bag (huts do not always provide bedding).

A living volcanic land

The route crosses one of the most geologically active landscapes in Europe, with volcanoes such as Hekla and Katla nearby. Iceland is also going through an intense eruptive phase on the Reykjanes peninsula, which we cover in this feature. If the island interests you, do not miss our selection of natural phenomena you can see with your own eyes, led by the northern lights.